Whilst Crusaders became the implacable foes of Islam in the Holy Land throughout the eleventh and twelfth centuries, they admired many of the material possessions of Muslims, and brought back to their dank, dark and gloomy castles in Europe wall hangings, carpets, spices, eating forks, glass vessels and fragrances. Empress Zoe, in the Christian stronghold of Constantinople, had employed court perfumers, certain that incense and perfumes drove out demons. From there the practice spread, with Normans strewing flowers and rushes onto the floors of castles and churches to keep the air fragrant and acceptable.
It was common to employ a washerwoman, or lavenderess (from which the word ‘laundress’ is derived) to place sprigs and sachets of lavender around the rooms, and sweet-smelling packets of herbs amongst the bed linen. Not so pleasant odours were important too. Knights jousting for a lady’s favour were not after a pretty handkerchief, but a ‘pretty’ smell (that of the lady’s armpit odour), since there was a practice of holding a kerchief there to retain some of the smell, and remembrance of the wearer.