Soap

If the product is to be a white soap, will any of the ingredients in the perfume formula cause discoloration, either immediately or in time? How will the total perfume perform in the soap bar? Will it cover the fatty smell of the base? If not, which ingredients perform best in the dry bar and in use? To overcome some of these problems, certain ingredi­ents in the alcoholic fragrance need to be substituted. For example, to prevent discoloration on storage, vanillin may be substituted by ethyl vanillin which, because it is more intense, can be dosed at about one — third the vanillin level. Small quantities of Ultravanil® are also incorporated to boost the vanilla effect without causing discoloration.

Indole is replaced by Indolal® at a slightly higher level, as it gives a less intense, animalic jasmine character in soap. Other ingredients need to be substituted because of their relatively high cost contribution to the perfume formula.

However, since many natural oils and absolutes also possess a correspondingly high odour strength and quality, the ratio of the cost to strength and quality should always be considered carefully before removing them. In this case, it is difficult to justify inclusion of the broom absolute in the soap context, so in its place a small quantity of methyl anthranilate (the chemical that quantitatively dominated the headspace of broom) is added. Care should always be taken with anthranilates because of the possible formation of Schiff’s bases upon reaction with aldehydes. Extra aldehydes will certainly be added to the soap version of the alcoholic perfume because of their excellent odour performance in covering the fatty smell of common soap bases.

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