The basic formulation used for this product is given in Figure 9.7. It is based on a mild blend of a high-foaming SLES, as for the shampoo, plus a high-purity betaine surfactant, which also contains glyceryl laurate to help build viscosity. The active detergent level (18%) is higher than that of the shampoo (14%), because of the greater dilution factor that the shower and bath gel will experience in use. A mild, vegetable-derived humectant, which moisturizes and softens the skin, is included, along with a cationic skin conditioner (Necon CPS-lOO®), which can be perceived on the skin even after dilution in the large volume of water used in a bath. Additional thickening to the desired
Formulation
Ingredient |
% wjw |
Phase A |
|
Purified water |
to 100.00 |
Sodium lauryl ether sulfate, 28% |
54.00 |
Tegobetain HS®a |
8.00 |
Phase В |
|
Purified water |
20.00 |
Antil 171®b |
3.00 |
Preservative |
As required |
Gluquat 125®c |
6.00 |
Necon CPS 100®d |
2.00 |
Dow Corning® 193 surfactant6 |
0.70 |
Phase C |
|
Fragrance |
1.00 |
Preparation
Blend together the ingredients of phases A and В separately.
Slowly add phase В to A, with moderate agitation, until homogeneous. Finally, add the fragrance and mix well.
Figure 9.7 Shower and bath gel formulation (a cocamidopropyl betaine and laureth-4, ex Th Goldschmidt AG, Essen, Germany;bpropylene glycol and PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, ex Th Goldschmidt; c lauryl methyl gluceth-10 hydroxypropyl dimonium chloride, ex Amerchol Corp., NJ, USA; >l PEG-15 cocamine phosphate I oleate complex; e dimethicone copolyol, ex Dow Corning Int., Brussels, Belgium)
Table 9.1 Botanical extracts with ‘relaxing’ connotations
gel-like consistency is achieved with a proprietary liquid thickening agent, Antil 171®.
Being an aqueous surfactant system, similar issues to those for shampoo need to be considered. The major difference is that the shower and bath gel is designed to be crystal clear and a thick, but still mobile, easily dispensed gel. Thus, the solubility characteristics of the fragrance are critical, as are any significant viscosity variations. The client has asked for recommendations for suitable botanical extracts which could support a relaxing claim for the product. Such extracts often contain low levels of essential oils, which could add an odour of their own to the base and may reduce the viscosity by virtue of containing propylene glycol as a carrier or solvent. Thus, it is useful to add these ingredients to the finished product base to ensure that the fragranced product still performs well. Table 9.1 gives examples of possible additives that might be recommended.
Both of the detergent products will be coloured with water-soluble dyestuffs to enhance the fragrance concept. Blue, green or peachy — orange are all possible choices for the colour, but unfortunately both blue and red dyes, in particular, are notoriously unstable to light. Thus, as with the shampoo, light-stability testing is needed to ensure that ingredients in the perfume do not destabilize the colour of the product, since it is likely to be packaged in clear or translucent containers.