Лако-красочные материалы — производство

At the outset a perfumer starts with a blank sheet of paper (or an empty computer screen). From where come ideas and inspiration? What is currently fashionable? The name of the game is to imagine the odour effect that the Business Scents product will exhibit in use. How should the alcoholic product smell from the bottle or atomizer? How will it develop on the skin once applied? How long should it last between applications? Once these decisions have been made the perfumer can start compiling a list of the fragrance raw materials that may be used to achieve the desired effect. At first sight, there appear to be hundreds of ingredients to choose from, but in practice there are a number of restricting factors. This concept of freedom of choice of ingredients can be described by employing the analogy of Degrees of Freedom as used in physical chemistry in which a system is constrained by a number of

factors. The EIGHT degrees of freedom in perfumery are shown in Figure 7.1 and listed below:

—SKIN SAFETY.

—ENVIRONMENTAL SAFETY.

—ACCEPTABLE ODOUR.

—COST.

—STABILITY.

—PERFORMANCE.

—PHYSICAL PROPERTIES (e. g. solubility, colour).

—ADDED VALUE (e. g. malodour counteractancy, insect repel — lency).

Figure 7.1 is a series of concentric polygons; it is an attempt to visualize the concept of the perfumery degrees of freedom. The outer octagon represents the system with no constraints, i. e. all eight degrees of freedom are available. If a constraint is introduced, for instance stability, then the polygon becomes a heptagon and the area contracts. This is analogous to restricting the number of ingredients that can be employed in the creation of the masterpiece! As further constraints are introduced one by one, the polygons become smaller and the number of sides diminishes accordingly. Eventually, one arrives at a small area in the centre where nearly all of the degrees of freedom have been lost. This is the situation in which relatively few perfume ingredients are available owing to the hostile nature of the medium to be fragranced, for example a limescale remover based on sulfamic acid. Perfume can often provide added value to a product mix. For example, it is possible to provide deodorant protection for a soap or deodorant — antiperspirant by combining certain chemical classes of ingredients, according to a patented set of rules. (See Patent Filings 1980/1981.)