NATURAL PRODUCT ANALYSIS

The analysis of natural products is a well-established part of the fragrance industry. Historically, essential oil analysis has provided the creative perfumer with the information required to reconstitute the characteristic odour of an oil at a lower cost and has led to the identification of the key components responsible for the odour. An essential oil may contain 300 or more components, and many plants and fragrant natural products have yet to be investigated in detail. Some of these materials may be a source of new odours. The traditional methods of essential oil analysis coupled with the ever-increasing sensitivity of modern equipment still leads to the discovery of fragrant natural chemicals that are new to science.

In Chapter 8, the creative perfumer approached the natural products

analysis section for help in finding a natural lead for ‘Eve’, the new fragrance range for Business Scents Ltd. He is looking for an exciting, new, tropical, floral, fruity note to be included in this creation and has requested that some tropical fruit, muguet flowers and broom absolute be investigated. The enquiry can be answered using traditional essential oil analysis or by taking advantage of the recent developments in headspace analysis. The aim, in either case, is to identify a natural product that has the desired fragrance, and by extraction and analysis to provide the perfumer with the identity of its key odour ingredients.

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