The original musk components of perfumes were extracted from animal sources. The two major ones were musk and civet, which were extracted from the anal glands of the musk deer and the civet cat, respectively. In both cases, the extracts have a strong animalic character arising from compounds such as indole and skatole (2-methylin — dole). The musk deer (Moschus moschiferus) is found in central Asia and natural musk is often called musk Tonkin, to denote the region of its origin. The civet cat (Viverra civetta) is found in Africa and Asia. Somehow, early perfumers recognized that under this animalic, and not entirely pleasant, note lay a rich, sweet character which serves not only as a perfume component in its own right, but also to ‘fix’ other notes. Fixation is a property of some perfume components, usually the higher boiling ones, that enables them to fix or hold back the more volatile notes so that they evaporate less quickly. The fixatives are therefore important in blending all of the perfume components so that the character does not change rapidly as each ingredient evaporates in turn.
Muscone (35) and civetone (36) are the most important odour components of musk and civet respectively. Ambrettolide (37) is a plant product, occurring in the seeds of the ambrette plant (Abel- moschus moschatus Moench, syn. Hibiscus abelmoschus) which is cultivated in Madagascar, the Seychelles, Colombia and Equador.
vy-Ionone isomer vy-Isomethyl — ionone
Scheme 4.42