17 августа, 2015 
Malyar The Business Scents Eau de Parfum formulation (Figure 9.1) contains 78% denatured ethanol. The source of this ethanol (e. g. synthetic; or natural grain starch, sugar beet, or molasses alcohol) can give rise to a different odour in the end product, and thus it is important to know what type of alcohol is likely to be used. Denaturants (which deter
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Formulation
Preparation Blend the fragrance and ethanol, then add the water and remaining ingredients slowly with mixing. Allow to mature at room temperature for up to 10 days and then cool to +1 °С, followed by filtration. A filter aid, such as magnesium carbonate at 0.2% can be used to remove difficult precipitates. Fill into clean, glass bottles. |
Figure 9.1 Eau de Parfum formulation (a Glucam P20® ex Amerchol Corp, Edison, NJ, USA; b Uvinul D50® ex BASF AG, Ludwigshafen, Germany )
people from ingesting the alcohol) are required by legislation in many countries and are also useful to know, although less likely to have a significant effect on the finished product. In this case, a standard 99.7% v/v synthetic grade, containing 0.1% v/v t-butanol as a marker and denatured with 10 p. p.m. of Bitrex [INCI(a) name is denatonium benzoate, an extremely bitter substance], is likely to be used by the client. Given the high level of alcohol (and consequent low level of water), there is unlikely to be any need for addition of solubilizers.
The formulation also contains an ultraviolet (UV) radiation absorber, benzophenone-2, to prevent degradation of the fragrance and any dyes by light. Although consumers are encouraged to keep fine fragrances in the dark, the manufacturer needs to protect the product from those of its customers who insist on storing it on a sunny windowsill! A moisturizing ingredient which has additional fragrance fixative properties (PPG-20 methyl glucose ether) is also incorporated in this instance.
As stated in Chapter 7, the perfumer has almost total freedom in creating perfumes for such products and the Applications Department simply needs to check the solubility of the fragrance at a range of temperatures, following the maturation, chilling and filtering process. If the maturation period is sufficient, there should be very little chance of any further solid materials in the fragrance precipitating out over time, although this must be checked. Light stability, even though a UV absorber is being used, must also be checked to ensure that the fragrance does not darken unacceptably or that any dyes added do not fade. It may be that, in this case, a different UV absorber works better or that the perfumer needs to change one or two — of the ingredients in the fragrance.
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