CREATING FRAGRANCES FOR THE FUTURE

As we approach the twenty-first century, theories are being built and
expanded upon that are almost self-fulfilling in creating the trends of

the future in fashion, art, family values, etc. As fashion designers, social philosophers and economists design our clothes and way of life for the future, so perfume designers seek to create the smells that complement and reinforce this environment. At the same time, a new and exciting smell within the constraints of acceptability gives the designer the advantage of novelty so sought after in the industry.

With the powerful software currently available, it is possible to pull together information from a wide variety of sources to give the perfumer guidelines to help channel or expand creative ideas in a way that is calculated to produce a successful odour type. Traditionally, market research gathers information from consumers in retrospect, using perfumes that have been selected as appropriate for a product and measuring a response to those perfumes, which is inevitably based on experience. For a new trend-setting perfume style, we need to predict or create a popular perfume trend for the future.

A perfume company such as Quest International establishes a perfume and product profile based on large studies of consumer responses (acquired from consumers of different age groups and social profiles) to different perfumes in different products in different coun­tries over a number of years. At the same time, a profile is built of changing social patterns and how this affects acceptance of different perfume styles. As part of our on-going studies of evaluative responses to odour types a profile is also built of the feelings or images that are conveyed by different odours.

The availability of evaluative and market research data, social trends analysis and fashion information, and perfume stability and olfactory performance measures, all of which are structured within the odour analysis provided by the sensory analysis group, provides the perfumer with a basis from which to work and add creative skill to develop the new fashion fragrance for the year 2000.

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