29 августа, 2015 
Malyar After 12 weeks of stability testing has been completed (and usually after an interim 4- or 6-week period), all the perfumed samples are assessed on odour and physical appearance. At Quest, scales of A-E for perfume character and 1-5 for odour intensity are used. The refrigerated sample (nominally 0°C) is treated as a standard, as perfume degradation is considered to be negligible at this temperature and is therefore rated as Al. The samples from the other conditions are assessed and rated against this standard. Any perfumed sample rated below C3 is regarded as unsatisfactory.
On physical appearance, the samples are checked for discoloration, separation, precipitation, changes in viscosity, etc. as appropriate to the product. A viewing cabinet can be useful for looking at the samples under consistent lighting conditions. An unperfumed sample or ‘control’ is always tested alongside to compare with the perfumed products. An A-D scale is used, in which C or D are considered a failure.
Most products are assessed directly from the bottle or jar, soap wrapper or box. However, some products, the true odour characteristics of which show up better in solution, are dissolved in warm water in an assessment cup. Aerosols are assessed on test pads, with time
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Table 9.2 Stability test results for the Eve Project (comments would be given on any significant changes in the odour or physical appearance, and results for the unperfumed controls have been omitted for simplification)
Odour character: A = no change, excellent, В = very slight modification, C = some modification but acceptable, D = modified, unsatisfactory, E = unrecognizable; Odour intensity: 1 = no change, 2 = slight weakening, 3 = some loss of impact but acceptable, 4 = weak, unsatisfactory, 5 = odourless or extremely weak; Physical appearance: A = no change, В = slight change, C = changed but acceptable, D = unacceptable change, e. g. discoloration, separation, viscosity change, etc. |
allowed for the propellant to evaporate. Testing in special, plastic — coated, clear, glass aerosols may be required in cases where solubility or discoloration reactions need to be observed inside the product.
The results for the project ‘Eve’ stability tests are shown in Table 9.2. These are reported to the perfumer and evaluator assigned to the project, and then are fed into the stability database on the computer for future reference.
Thus, it can be seen that several of the fragrance modifications created for the line extensions have successfully completed the standard stability tests and the final selection can be made based on additional criteria, such as cost and hedonics. These fragrances can then be submitted to Business Scents Ltd with confidence that they are likely to be stable for at least a year, as long as the bases used are not radically altered. However, it remains the client’s and their contract manufacturer’s responsibility to carry out their own stability testing in the final product formulations to ensure their consumer safety and acceptability.
H. Butler, Poacher’s Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, Vol. 3 Cosmetics, 9th edn, Chapman & Hall, London, 1993.
G. Holzner, Cosmet. & Perfum., 1974, 89, 37.
IFSCC Monograph No. 2, The Fundamentals of Stability Testing, Micelle Press, Weymouth, 1992.
J. Knowlton and S. Pearce, Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology, Elsevier Advanced Technology, Oxford, 1993.
A. Leung and S. Foster, Encyclopedia of Common Natural Ingredients used in
Food, Drugs and Cosmetics, 2nd edn, John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1996.
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