Архивы рубрики ‘THE CHEMISTRY OF FRAGRANCES’

PERFUME INGREDIENTS DERIVED FROM NAPHTHALENE

Acetylation of naphthalene gives methyl naphthyl ketone, and sulfonation followed by alkaline fusion gives naphthol (Scheme 4.60). The methyl and ethyl ethers of naphthol are prepared from naphthol by reaction with the corresponding alkyl sulfate under basic conditions. These ethers are usually known by the shorter names of yara and nerolin, respectively. Yara, nerolin and […]

PERFUME INGREDIENTS DERIVED FROM PHENOL

Phenol is a material of major commercial importance. One of its earliest uses was as a disinfectant (carbolic acid). Earlier in the twentieth century, it became important as a feedstock for resins such as Bakelite®, and in the latter part of the century it also became very important as a precursor for caprolactone and caprolactam […]

PERFUME INGREDIENTS DERIVED FROM TOLUENE

The alkylation of toluene to give hydrocinnamic derivatives is dis­cussed in the previous section, alongside the same reaction of benzene. The tree of products in this section all derive from the oxidation of toluene, as shown in Scheme 4.53. Air oxidation of toluene gives predominantly benzoic acid. This is used in perfumery for the preparation […]

PERFUME INGREDIENTS DERIVED FROM BENZENE

One of the most important perfume ingredients made from benzene is 2-phenylethanol. The synthesis of this, and related compounds, is shown in Scheme 4.50. 2-Phenylethanol is a major component of rose oils and is widely used in perfumery for its blending qualities. In tonnage terms, it is one of the most important of all perfumery […]

Macrocyclic Musks

The problem in the synthesis of macrocyclic musks lies with entropy. The simplest approach to building a large ring is to make a long chain with functionality at each end such that the two ends of the chain can react to close the ring through the formation of a new carbon-carbon bond. However, entropy dictates […]

Polycyclic Musks

In the 1950s, a new class of musks was discovered, the polycyclic musks. These materials mostly have indane, tetralin or isochroman structures, heavily substituted by methyl or other small alkyl groups. Typical members of this family are Traseolide® (42), Phantolide® (43) and Celestolide®/Crysolide® (44). Currently, the most important polycyclic musks, in commercial terms, are 6-acetyl-l, […]

Nitromusks

The natural musks were always very expensive and their macrocyclic structures presented synthetic challenges which were not conquered, even on laboratory scale, until the pioneering work of Ruzicka in 1926. It was therefore of major importance to the fragrance industry when, in 1888, Baur discovered the nitromusks. He had actually been working on explosives and […]

MUSKS

The original musk components of perfumes were extracted from animal sources. The two major ones were musk and civet, which were extracted from the anal glands of the musk deer and the civet cat, respectively. In both cases, the extracts have a strong animalic char­acter arising from compounds such as indole and skatole (2-methylin — […]

Ionones and Related Compounds

The ionones and damascones are derived in nature from the degrada­tion of carotenoids. Similarly, the related irones are formed by degradation of other higher terpenes. The ionones are synthesized from citral by aldol condensation with a ketone to form what are known as |/-ionones, which are then cyclized using an acid catalyst, as shown in […]

Ambergris

The last two sections deal with two very important groups of terpenoid fragrance ingredients which arise, in nature, from degradation of larger units. The sperm whale produces, in its intestinal tract, a triterpene called ambreine, the structure of which is shown in Scheme 4.37. It is not known exactly why the whale produces ambreine; it […]