Архивы рубрики ‘THE CHEMISTRY OF FRAGRANCES’

Antiperspirant

Here, the problems are associated with possible discoloration, and stability with the acidic aluminium chlorhydrate (the active ingredient). In Chapter 15, the reasons for the poor stability of Lilial®, hydroxy — citronellal and cyclamen aldehyde in such a medium are explained. All three are present in the ‘Project Eve’ fragrance. In Chapter 10, the empirical […]

Shower and Bath Gel

Again, issues of discoloration and performance are important. In addition to hair substantivity, retentivity on the body must be con­sidered. In general, the perfume dosage in a shower gel or bath product is double that for shampoo, so the effect of any potentially discolouring ingredients is accentuated. The higher perfume level certainly helps fragrance retentivity. […]

Shampoo

Discoloration and performance issues are important. For example, will the perfume diffuse from the shampoo pack and then again as the hair is being washed in warm water? Will it be substantive on the dry hair? Will it be soluble in the shampoo base? In Chapter 11, the issues relevant to predicting the performance of […]

Soap

If the product is to be a white soap, will any of the ingredients in the perfume formula cause discoloration, either immediately or in time? How will the total perfume perform in the soap bar? Will it cover the fatty smell of the base? If not, which ingredients perform best in the dry bar and […]

DEVELOPMENT OF OTHER PRODUCTS

Once the fragrance has been evaluated on skin and approved by the evaluation panel, the perfumer can start to make versions for the other products in the Business Scents range; namely, soap, antiperspirant, shampoo, and shower and bath gel. The first problem to be encountered is almost certainly one of cost. The client will not […]

THE ALCOHOLIC FRAGRANCE

An alcoholic fragrance provides almost complete freedom of choice; there is the possibility of acetal formation due to the interaction of the aldehyde and ketone functional groups, with the alcohol used as the carrier, but this often has a softening effect on the fragrance and is not perceived as a disadvantage. No other serious chemical […]

PERFUMERY DEGREES OF FREEDOM

At the outset a perfumer starts with a blank sheet of paper (or an empty computer screen). From where come ideas and inspiration? What is currently fashionable? The name of the game is to imagine the odour effect that the Business Scents product will exhibit in use. How should the alcoholic product smell from the […]

Perfume Creation: The Role of the. Perfumer LES SMALL

Business Scents Ltd has briefed Quest to repeat their success of the 1990s, in which a popular fine fragrance launch was followed by a successful launch of a series of trickle-down products, namely a soap, a shampoo, a shower gel and an antiperspirant. The brief is known as ‘Project Eve’. Market research indicates that an […]

Price

We do not envisage a cost in excess of US$50 per kilo on a delivered basis to our main manufacturing unit in Holland for the fine fragrance perfume. Modified perfume in the same fragrance direction, but workable in appropriate bases, should cost no more than US$30 per kilo for soap, shampoo, shower gel and antiper […]

Time-scale

A submission is required (maximum one kilo) within six months of the brief date. Meantime, constant contact with Marketing at Business Scents is encouraged to determine whether the directions being reviewed are realistic. Interim submissions and dialogue are suggested. We require only one submission per fragrance house, although it is likely that we will develop […]