Архивы рубрики ‘THE CHEMISTRY OF FRAGRANCES’

Aerosol Antiperspirant

The client requires an effective antiperspirant product which is to be dispensed as an aerosol spray using a propane-butane blend as the propellent gas. Figure 9.4 illustrates the basic components of an aerosol. The formulation that the applications chemist uses (Figure 9.5) is a powder in volatile silicone-fluid (cyclomethicone) suspension. This type of formulation requires […]

Vegetable Soap

The client has asked for a recommended formulation for a luxurious soap bar, based solely on vegetable fats (Figure 9.2). A high-quality palm-coconut base that is widely available in Europe should be suitable, but it was felt that such a premium product should contain some additional materials to convey ‘added value’. Thus, a powdered cationic […]

Fine Fragrance

The Business Scents Eau de Parfum formulation (Figure 9.1) contains 78% denatured ethanol. The source of this ethanol (e. g. synthetic; or natural grain starch, sugar beet, or molasses alcohol) can give rise to a different odour in the end product, and thus it is important to know what type of alcohol is likely to […]

PRODUCT FORMULATIONS

Before work can begin on sampling or testing any of the perfumer’s new creations, the client has asked for suggested starting-point product formulations. Business Scents Ltd does not have the necessary devel­opment resource or manufacturing equipment in-house to handle the production of any of the products other than the alcoholic fine fragrance, and will appoint […]

The Application of Fragrance

JUDI BEERLING THE ROLE OF AN APPLICATIONS DEPARTMENT An Applications Department within a fragrance house is responsible for ‘applying’ a fragrance oil or essence to a consumer product. This process in itself can be problematic, since the fragrance may not always be easily incorporated into the product base. Solubility of the fragrance could be a […]

CREATING FRAGRANCES FOR THE FUTURE

As we approach the twenty-first century, theories are being built andexpanded upon that are almost self-fulfilling in creating the trends of the future in fashion, art, family values, etc. As fashion designers, social philosophers and economists design our clothes and way of life for the future, so perfume designers seek to create the smells that […]

ANALYSIS OF INGREDIENTS TO CONVEY THE. APPROPRIATE ODOUR CHARACTERISTICS

In the sections above, the sensory profiling and multidimensional scaling techniques are illustrated using data obtained from the analysis of muguet perfumery materials. From a purely olfactory point of view, the type of odour that best fits the odour described in this brief is cyclamen aldehyde, but with the range of products that need to […]

Definition of the Appropriate Odour Area

We already have information available from a project completed recently reviewing the perfumes currently used in toilet soap bars in Europe. A range of soaps was profiled by the sensory panel and the results were analysed to give a two-dimensional map showing the Figure 8.5 Odour map of European toilet-soap bars relative similarities in odour […]

THE BUSINESS SCENTS BRIEF

The brief from Business Scents Ltd requests submissions for a feminine luxury line that includes a fine fragrance, antiperspirant, shampoo/ shower gel and soap. The perfumer has asked for guidelines for the appropriate odour area as soon as possible so that the creative work can begin.

PSYCHOLOGY OF PERFUME

Olfaction is a powerfully emotive sense. An odour has the ability to remind us of the past; for instance, to bring back memories of situations from our youth, or to remind us of friends or family. It also has the ability to promote feelings of relaxation or comfort, a property which is made much of […]