Whereas it used to be thought that the skin was an impermeable barrier to the outside world, it is now known that a large number of chemicals are absorbed to some degree, including those used in fragrances (Hotchkiss, 1994). The actual amount that penetrates the skin depends on how much is applied to which area […]
Архивы рубрики ‘THE CHEMISTRY OF FRAGRANCES’
Skin Irritation
Although unpleasant, skin irritation, which manifests itself as redness (erythema) and/or swelling (oedema) is not a major problem, as once the source of irritation is removed the effect diminishes. Most fragrance ingredients are classed as mild or moderate irritants when in an undiluted form only, so the low levels found in consumer products are unlikely […]
SELF-REGULATION
It was realized by the fragrance industry some 30 years ago that this absence of regulations concerning the ingredients that could be used in fragrances, or on the safety of fragrances in consumer products, could expose the consumer to unacceptable risks which would lead to governmental intervention in the industry. To avoid such problems, the […]
The Safety and Toxicology of. Fragrances
STEVE MEAKINS INTRODUCTION How many consumers, even the more discerning ones, ever think about the safety of a fine fragrance or aftershave before they buy it? It is likely that they are far more interested in ensuring that the product ‘smells right’ on their skin, and that it blends with and enhances the image they […]
Assessment and Reporting of Results
After 12 weeks of stability testing has been completed (and usually after an interim 4- or 6-week period), all the perfumed samples are assessed on odour and physical appearance. At Quest, scales of A-E for perfume character and 1-5 for odour intensity are used. The refrigerated sample (nominally 0°C) is treated as a standard, as […]
Light Testing
A great deal of contention surrounds how best to accelerate the testing of products that will be exposed to daylight, and particularly to strong sunlight. Prior to the development of suitable equipment, samples were placed on a North-facing (so that they were not in direct sunlight) windowsill for however long was available for testing. However, […]
Humidity Testing
Products that are likely to be packaged in permeable materials, such as paper or cardboard, need to be tested in high-humidity conditions. Thus, a common combination is 37 °C/70% relative humidity (RH) or 40 °C/80% RH. This type of testing is most useful for boxed laundry powders (particularly those destined to be sold in tropical […]
STABILITY TESTING
As touched on previously, it is seemingly impossible to predictaccurately, in the few short weeks or months of the average product- development process, the chemical and physical changes that might occur after anything up to several years of storage on a consumer’s bathroom shelf, or in the dusty corner of a drug store in Timbuktoo. […]
Shower and Bath Gel
The basic formulation used for this product is given in Figure 9.7. It is based on a mild blend of a high-foaming SLES, as for the shampoo, plus a high-purity betaine surfactant, which also contains glyceryl laurate to help build viscosity. The active detergent level (18%) is higher than that of the shampoo (14%), because […]
Shampoo
Figure 9.6 shows the conditioning shampoo formulation selected. It is based on a blend of a high foaming anionic detergent (sodium lauryl ether sulfate, commonly abbreviated to SLES) and a mild, amphoteric betaine detergent which lowers the irritation potential of the SLES. A cold-mix pearl concentrate is added to give an attractive, white, pearly appearance […]