Архивы рубрики ‘THE CHEMISTRY OF FRAGRANCES’

Distillation

Distillation of perfume ingredients from their natural sources can be done in three ways: dry (or empyreumatic) distillation, steam distilla­tion or hydrodiffusion. Dry distillation involves high temperatures, since heat (and in most cases this is direct flame) is applied to the surface of the vessel containing the plant material. Usually this technique is reserved for […]

EXTRACTION OF NATURAL PERFUME INGREDIENTS

The methods used to extract perfume ingredients from their natural sources have changed over time as technology in general has advanced. However, both old and new methods fall into three basic classes: expression, distillation and solvent extraction. Expression Expression is the simplest of the three techniques. When odorants are forced out of the natural source […]

Biosynthesis

So, plants and animals produce odorous materials for a wide variety of reasons, but how do they generate them? All living organisms produce chemicals through a process known as biosynthesis. The materials thus produced can be classified into two major groups, viz. primary and secondary metabolites. Primary metabolites are those that are common to all […]

Perfumery Materials of Natural Origin

CHARLES SELL PERFUMES AND ODOURS IN NATUREIntroduction Like the pharmaceutical industry, the fragrance industry uses nature as its guide and source of inspiration. All the perfumes and perfume ingredients that we produce in our factories are modelled to a greater or lesser extent on those found in nature. We observe nature, analyse it to find […]

THE AGE OF FASHION

/ am no longer interested in dressing a few hundred women, private clients; I shall dress thousands of women. But… a widely repeated fashion, seen everywhere, cheaply produced, must start from luxury. Gabrielle (Coco) Chanel Table 2.3 underscores a prodigious growth in the use of fragrances, where for each decade of the twentieth century, against […]

Industrialization and ‘Massification’

By 1879 it was listed that Yardley exported over a score of different varieties of scented soaps to the United States, whilst the British company Crown Fragrances was exporting 49 different fragrances to 47 different countries. Perfumers focused on mass production tech­niques for aroma chemicals, glass bottles and alcohol to service an ever-growing market demand. […]

Technique

In his book Odours, Fragrances and Cosmetics (1865), S. Piesse developed theories that related specific odours to notes on a musical scale in an attempt to categorize the spectrum of smells, whilst in 1890 Atkinsons produced one of the first books on perfume technology, essentially concerned with the production of absolutes by the cryo — […]

THE AGE OF EMPIRE

Napoleon Bonaparte loved aromas, even dispelling a revolution with his ‘whiff of grapeshot’. Hailing from Corsica, Bonaparte liked the fresh citrus and herbal smells, and favoured Eau de Cologne, using by all accounts several bottles a day and more than 60 a month! In an echo back to the days of the French King Henry, […]

Lady I would descend to kiss thy hand But ‘tis gloved, and civet makes me sick

Meanwhile, the glass cutter borrowed techniques from the gem cutter, and the Venetian style of soda-lime glass was copied throughout Christendom, but without the same brilliance of metal. In 1673, the Glass Seller’s Company of England commissioned George Ravenscroft to produce an acceptable substitute, and using up to 30% lead oxide in the mix, a […]

THE AGE OF REVOLUTION

The rejection of monarchy, fuelled by an English Civil War earlier (1642-1651) grew apace in the revolutions of North America (1775— 1783) and France (1785-1799), leading to fundamentally new politics and world order. Meantime, a quieter revolution was occurring, as apothecaries, spicerers and chemists began to develop professionally a new trade, that of perfumery. In […]