4 августа, 2015 
Malyar Here, the problems are associated with possible discoloration, and stability with the acidic aluminium chlorhydrate (the active ingredient). In Chapter 15, the reasons for the poor stability of Lilial®, hydroxy — citronellal and cyclamen aldehyde in such a medium are explained. All three are present in the ‘Project Eve’ fragrance. In Chapter 10, the empirical stability testing conducted on a range of perfume ingredients in antiperspirant media is described. This knowledge base is available for screening the ‘Project Eve’ perfume for possible problem ingredients. Bearing this in mind, it is necessary to substitute the Lilial®, hydroxycitronellal and cyclamen aldehyde in the perfume formula with Florosa®, together with a small quantity of Bourgeonal®. Florosa® is very stable in antiperspirant and, although Bourgeonal® is not totally stable, it is so intense that only traces are required to deliver the desired watery floral effect. Similarly, other relatively unstable ingredients are substituted by more stable, better performing materials, whilst the overall theme or shape of the composition is always maintained.
So, it can be seen that the role of the perfumer is a blend of artist and scientist, continuously attempting to bring an imagined odour into being via a written perfume formulation in the same way that a composer imagines a symphony and realizes it by writing the notes as a score. As in all creative processes, a period of reflection is required prior to starting work. To create a pleasant fragrance in a reactive medium, the perfumer must have a full understanding of the odour, and physical and chemical properties of the available raw materials.
Deo Patent Filings. Soap Bar/Deoperfume: GB2016507/US4288341, 1980/ 1981.
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